Friday, October 28, 2016

Upgrades and doing things the right way for a 3G Mitsubishi eclipse.


I  blogged on this page to help others with the simplistic mods of starting into being the owner of a 3rd generation Mitsubishi eclipse. Helpful tips for the best of bolt ons and the advice to go with them. What qualifies me to write this blog, I own a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6, with a 5-speed manual transmission. This blog is a shorthand, fact sheet about the 3g eclipse on tips and tricks to this car. Remember this is a tips blog, not a full blown mechanical work-up on the car. Please consult your local AES certified mechanic for complete installation and guidance!

If you want to read the rest of the website. HERE IT IS. Click the link to use the rest of the page. I posted a few news blogs.

Site Map

BLOG NOTICE: Fun while it lasts.... Yes, I am happy to hear that google decided to fix a few things so more people could sign up for google now, without having to use a mobile device to log in. But like all things, I am deciding that  it is time to move on from this blog and just stop all together. This blog will now become a "dead link".

I have decided that I am not going to spend too much  more time on edits or revisions of this blog.  I do not make any money on this blog and won't collect money,  as it bars me from liabilities, as well as advertiser interests that may control this blog. INCLUDING avoiding copyright infringement. I had thought about adding in donations and monetary funding, but all too often the stupidity of United States Copyright laws ruin the free world of internet. I understand that creators do NOT like their stuff copied, but all too often it gets blown out of proportion, especially on youtube. Which is why I REFUSE to post youtube videos of 3G eclipse stuff. Petty shit such as "oh there was a logo, or song playing in the background", and now they ban your video and account, is why I will NOT partner with youtube to deliver video content, and will never share or post photos on this page.
-Notes: I apologize to everyone on clerical errors on here

-Revisions I am missed  Questions about the location of the Mass Airflow sensor on turbocharging, Bypass valve vs BOV(I haven't had a chance yet to write out the details on this, if you need additional information I would contact your local automotive technician on the details, as it may be awhile before I get this write-up done.


-Please support the 3G community by  petition and/or email the following companies about bringing back Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Parts (2000-2005) They have stopped making a lot of these parts for our cars and we NEED to write these companies. I have provided a link to each company on this front page, they are NOT my contact information, they are the  companies that we know and love. Please take a moment of your time to express your gratitude by asking them to bring back the following car parts for US.

2000-2005 Mitsubishi eclipse GT Supercharger (ask for a 4 cylinder too!)

Ripp Superchargers
148 Lynhurst Ave
Staten Island, NY 10305
(718) 815-1313  (International Calling add 001 + 718 )

2000-2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Apexi "Power intake" Panel air filter

Apex Integration Americas
1449 West Orange Grove Avenue
Orange CA 92868
Tel:714-685-5700 Fax:714-685-5701

2000-2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT DC Sport Headers and Catback exhaust.

DC sports
13000 Temple Ave
City of Industry, CA 91746

Thank you for taking your time to read this page! Please email these people and believe me, buy their products if they decide to do this!

- I do apologize but I do NOT offer or maintain direct links to company websites. I do this because many companies may NOT appreciate this. For some reason if there are multiple links put in place, the company may not appreciate the influx from another website and/or they may not condone the content that this website expresses. Also, if the company changes their URLS (which a lot do) then it may render the link a "dead link" and unusable, in essence, frustrating my blog users. So you MAY have to do some digging! (apologies!)

*Please note: The dates on these blogs are NOT their correct posting dates. Blogger has some sort of issue with putting blogs in the order that I want. So don't think the date has anything to do with the actual post date!

-Disclaimer. This blog is an informative blog from my perspective and should be taken as "for entertainment use only".  I am not held liable for any and all damages, accidents, injuries, death or legal repercussions that may incur. It is your responsibility to find this disclaimer by location of my site map. By assuming this right, I do NOT have to post this disclaimer on every page! Any and all automotive advice should be sought after by a licensed and certified mechanic. It is YOUR responsibility to understand All laws regarding your vehicle in your country! Currently I do NOT receive any monetary installments or kick-backs from any one company. It is my right to share my opinions in a respectful manner.

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

3G Eclipse Cold air intakes, Cone filters and short ram Facts and Install

 UPDATED! October 25th, 2016

I am sure you are jaded into the cold air scene. The cool flashy looking metal tubes that cost LOTS of money. If you are not considering turbocharging your car and it is your goal to free up the intake manifold, by all means do so. BUT you are NOT going to get any real power gains to justify a crazy amount of money UNLESS You choose to have someone tune your motor! Around here we do not have many tuners that do extensive work. Where I live any tuner around here costs at least $1,000 to roll into a shop and ask for a tune. It's disgustingly annoying. So back on the question. Cold air, cones, OEM, short ram or KN OEM swap?

The OEM Panel Filter swap. Currently I am finding that the "Dry flow" panels and filters are much better than the oil soaked filters. Yes the oil soaked ones are nice to have, but they have a tendency to clog up the MAF (Mass airflow sensor).  Breaking news: I had to remove my cold air intake system recently, with the so-called "climate change" or as we should just call it, the "natural cycle of the earth where weather patterns shift every 100 years" is happening at the moment. So we are now getting torrential rain falls and having a cold air intake system right now is NOT safe, due to the amount of flooding we are having. So I had some time to write reviews on panel filters. The stock filtration system on the 3g eclipse resembles the Same intake systems on the Ford probe GT's. The factory system sucks from directly the front gap infront of your radiator, not behind it. So the car is already sucking really decent air from the car. You could call it "factory cold air" if you want to.

The "AFE Pro Dry S" is a really good panel filter to have on your car. There is no oil to gum up on the MAF (mass airflow sensor) and I would strongly recommend this to anyone who lives in an area with heavy flooding, rainfall and looking to stay on a budget. (AFE 31-10041)

K&N OEM swap, is a pretty good swap in for this car,but I did make a note in recent findings that the oil from this filter will eventually gum up your MAF and cause issues with the engine over a period of a very long time, but it is still enough to be noticeable!

Accel Kool blue panel filter: Currently I am experimenting with this filter, I would say that the filtration on this filter is "less than ideal" compared to the others.

Apexi Panel filter: I am going to try and get on their case this week or next by emailing them about their panel filters. I encourage EVERYONE to spam Apexi, because they are  making panel filters for all other cars, EXCEPT ours!! I would LOVE it, if everyone went about  to email them about coming up with a panel air filter for our cars!! Please show your support by doing so! Thank you.

Final thoughts on the OEM panel filter swap: I did notice an increase in the noise level from the car, vs the factory, as well as additional "get up and go" The fuel mileage over stock, was noticeably better and with the way fuel prices are, it will pay for itself in a matter of a very short time!

Short Ram: I would only use shortram during fall, early spring or winter time. The short ram system sucks the air directly under the hood. Which is really, really hot air. IN the summer time this provides absolutely zero benefit to your car. If anything it will hurt your performance. It may sound cool, but believe me, it is NOT cool. When is it good to use short-ram? I also have recently discovered if you have an area where you park your car that has mice infestations you will want to use a short-ram system. Mice will CHEW your paper air filter, and attempt to build a nest in your air box. I've had it happen recently. i was so mad. So much for patting myself on the back for the use of panel filters. An import note. If you want to go from the AEM swap of the Short ram to their cold air, if you call their phone number, AEM will GLADLY send you out the extra parts to build a cold air system from their short ram, with reasonable charges!!

A cone slapped onto the end of the intake: It really does not offer performance gains, HOWEVER if you are in a position where you have mice bothering your intake box, then do so! I recommend to ONLY, and I MEAN only use AEM 21-202DK DryFlow Air Filter.

Cold air Systems. Cold air is really, really pricey: It runs $250-500. Depending on the company. Only 2 companies have approved parts that do NOT void the warranty on this car. These 2 are K&N Filters and AEM. AEM cold air systems actually scored higher than KN filter systems. AEM Offers a FLUSH spacer/adapter to your mass airflow sensor which allows uninterrupted flow to the intake of the car. AEM also does have a direct fitment option for a bypass filter. should you decide to drive through a huge puddle of water.

"Custom-built Cold air intakes": Despite this being cheep. Don't do it. An air intake system is strictly designed to prevent turbulence inside the air intake. Cold air makers such as K&N, Injen, AEM and Apexi, spend millions of dollars on equipment that is designed to examine every square millimeter of their piping to make SURE there is no weird air 'eddies" or pockets of turbulence that form inside their intakes. Your custom built pipe will NOT do that and can potentially burn your valves.  I have seen many "custom intakes" that people build. Everything from the Spectre brand kits, to the PVC pipe ones. It never ends well, and the car is usually trashed or becomes trash after a short amount of time. On very rare instances, a person can match the right size of diameter, cone air filter and put it AFTER the MAF. But it just isn't the greatest thing to do.

The verdict. I would buy an AEM cold air intake and only expect to perform amazing, if you are ready to fork out the money to pay someone to tune your vehicle after it is installed. This will help you free up some horsepower, benifit your motor and help kick some extra tail out on the road. BUT if you were to make this worth while. I would consider these total options. I am NOT saying that using a short ram intake, or a cold air intake is a total waste of money, but if you want the biggest kick to your motor, it's really gotta be tuned!

1. Cat back exhaust system, preferably Invidia. (a hushpower II resonator installed)
2. An AEM COLD air intake system.
3. Short tube headers from RPW Australia.
4. An IMMEDIATE tune done by a reputable car tuner.
5. Replace the spark plugs, and spark plug wires, all with NGK products.

Have fun!

For more of my great blogs, tips tutorials and information please use the link below!
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Friday, August 15, 2014

Underglow laws and nusciance ordinances

Car underglow is REALLY, REALLY awesome. But like all cool things, law enforcement and DOT have the final say. This is what I currently know on street glow for MY state. But it may NOT apply to yours. So look it up before you decide to buy street glow lights. Right now the ONLY 2 legal colors that I know of for lighting under a car is. PINK and Purple. The DOT (Department of Transportation) states that lights underneath a car can SUPPOSEDLY make other motorists believe that these cars are emergency vehicles, road construction vehicles or road barricades. I would like to know WHY they think that.

Rule #1  All street glow bulbs must NOT be visible by other drivers. (okay fair enough)

Rule #2  Bulbs or street glow from the car must NOT flash  (Okay still reasonable)

Rules #3 Bulbs must ONLY be visible X amount of feet from the car ( kinda lame) It varies per state.

Rule #4 Red is ONLY permissible on the rear of the vehicle.

Orange/yellowish is only permissible on the sides of the vehicle.

White is ONLY permissible on the front of the vehicle (yes they even have this one folks!)

Besides Purple and pink, if Im right, Teal is another one you can get away with, but it better be a really good teal color to pass the Leo's approval.

Street glow I find is probably SAFER than anything. It attracts attention TO YOUR CAR. I find stupid drivers all day long, swerving ALL over the road because they are too busy chatting it up on their smart phones. traveling down the center lane and never once DO they pay attention to me. If I have a chance at grabbing their attention just once, while they are busy texting or surfing the web while they are driving. That is one more accident that won't occur.

Loud exhaust systems. I have heard some of the loudest cars out there that are from the import scene and I would say that the Mitsubishi eclipse really can hold its own. I find that having a loud car helps get those cell phone drivers to look over their shoulder because they just "didn't see you there" I am fortunate enough to live in a state where loud exhaust laws are generally not enforced. All the people who own pick up trucks will drive up and down with their huge 6" exhaust pipes and stacks, spewing charcoal smoke all day, can enjoy themselves so why can't I?

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Thursday, August 14, 2014

3G eclipse Tires and traction.

Every good performance car needs something that is sturdy, reliable, durable and safe to drive on. I am talking about tires.

Tires are an overlooked object. The ONLY thing that connects your car to the surface it is traveling on.

Recommended Brand and model of tires: Goodyear Eagle.

For this I am basing it on All season tires. I choose to drive on all season tires because in the event that something happens and I have to go somewhere. I need to be versatile at ALL times. An all weather tire is going to allow you to hit any surface at any time of the year and perform. If you get into a situation where you need to pull off the pavement and drive onto a dirt road or gravel road You have  that capability. There is always a time when a pavement road situation could escalate and you need to leave an area fast. By having this advantage you do NOT limit your routes of escape.

I've tried a handful of tires out there and different brands to say the least. Kumho, Yokohama being the two lead tires that I ran with performance cars. Did I see the greatness that their hype was all about. The answer was NO. I found that Yokohama tires did the WORST for traction on ALL types of surfaces. These tires proved to be nothing more than expensive tuner hype. Their grip and traction to the pavement was not even within acceptable ranges on a front wheel drive car.

I can say that Kumho tires are extremely noisy tires on all pavement types. Their tires wear out fast and did not provide for an amazing ride. The same thing applies for Yokohama.

Traction: The eclipse handles extremely well when it comes to S-curves, and most weather conditions. The eclipse when equipped with the right tires, does amazing even in the snow!

Blow outs: In the event of a blow out. You should NEVER apply the brakes! Instead you should apply the accelerator (gas pedal) fully. Slowly, but firmly steer toward the direction of the force that is caused by the tire blown out. Example, if the right tire blows out, you steer partially to the right. Vice versa. Then apply your emergency flashers and allow the rim to coast you to safety. A Rim costs WAY less than a life!

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Wednesday, August 13, 2014

3G Eclipse Forced induction: Nitrous, superchargers and turbochargers

The 3G eclipse comes in 2 platforms, with several different sub options. But let's just call it what it is. A 4 Cylinder (RS/GS) and the V6 GT. Then there is the GTS.If you are lucky like I am to have the GT. The V6 in this car is already fairly powerful. No it is not a Ferrari stomper and has it's own class. But it does decently well for what it is.The DOWNSIDE to this car is. The engine bay is PACKED. I mean it is packed to the brim full of internal systems.

Basics about knowing before you dive into Forced Induction: Engine internal upgrades are necessary on a GAS powered engine. I run diesel semi trucks and diesel service trucks now, but unlike a diesel, car engines are VERY frail. A gas vehicle Requires the following upgrades,  New pistons, (including piston rods)  new piston rings, a professional machine shop to hone out the cylinder, new valves, new valve springs, cam shaft upgrade ( to compensate for fuel timing) or the use of a timing pulley that has been crafted as an aftermarket item, cylinder head-gaskets, exhaust headers/manifold upgrades, exhaust system upgrades, ignition wires, ignition coils, and the biggest one of all, A person that will have to go in and program new ignition timing, fuel maps and other fun stuff. Basically you are taking a car out of it's design spec and doing something completely un-natural to the car's design.

Supercharging: People can spend the money and time tracking down the original RIPP superchargers for this car. They fit, clean, flush and are a very nice system. Of course if you choose to supercharge this car, mind you. You have to overhaul EVERYTHING. Because the stock internals won't take the day to day beatings of supercharging very well. RIPP is no longer producing this kit, which is a shame, but if you find one or decide to buy one, expect to shell out $3,000-5,000 for this system. Currently RPW out of Australia now sells a branded kit called a "Rotrex" for supercharging at the price of $8,000. I have not had ANY money yet to buy this kit and try it out.

Turbocharging: I see MANY single turbo systems for this car, and I find them all detesting to say the very least. The turbo is CRAMMED in there, with tons of winding exhaust tubes and piping that barely fit inside this car. The turbo sits where the original air box is, and there is next to nothing for room. HOWEVER .........

Recently RPW out of Australia now sells a TWIN TURBO KIT FOR THIS CAR. That is right, a Twin turbo system for the 3G Eclipse GT V6 motor. The turbos are extremely small that fit in there, and their selling point is, you ONLY have to swap your radiator fans to slim ones, in order to make it fit. The settup looks very similar to our sister car, the 3000 GT VR4 (Turbo) I am happy to see someone finally took the liberty to do so. RPW is a very professional company from Australia, I've had questions for them from time to time and they do a very nice job at helping and answering what I wanted to know. I must say that you can buy HIGH QUALITY parts from them, and its worth the shipping costs. Many American companies and even the Japanese ones, stopped making parts for this car eons ago.

Stock boosting. Right now as far as I know, you will have to set your stock boosting pressures at 4psi-5 1/2 or 6 PSI at most. The ratio we know that PSI works at it, is for every 1 PSI you get 10 HP, so around 40-60HP in gains. Which isn't bad. BUT a properly tuned Naturally Aspirated car can do the same thing!

Part II The GS/RS

 If you are the more or less fortunate, but STILL a respectable crowd to obtain this car, it's not all that bad. Eclipses are pretty hard to find (at least around here) so don't be shamed if you have one.I am really disappointed why Mitsubishi chose to leave us in the dust on this. But I wished they continued their flagship in the GS-T. Instead they switched over to their GT  V6 motor. The Kicker as we all know here was the issue of the turbocharger that was in them. Insurance companies punish those of us who love turbos and everything about them. Turbo spells insurance hike.  The GST Eclipse has the same amount of HP as the GT eclipse. BUT the fuel mileage on the GST was much better vs the GT.

If you are a person with a GS or RS eclipse and stuck with that 4 Cylinder motor. I would go ahead and sink in the almighty dollar to buying a Turbo system for these cars. You can bring them up to snuff and enjoy what there is to this car. yes the 4 cylinder is a snappy motor. But there is so much more out there for it. The GS/RS cars can be serviced MUCH easier than a GT. Their engine bays have much more room to work with and their plugs can be changed easier. I will still stick to my primary beliefs that if you are going to turbocharge your 4-Cylinder 3g eclipse that 4psi or 5psi boosting is what I would stick to on this car. I would have no regrets putting it on this car. If you trash a motor, a re-manufactured motor is going to run you $500-1000 and the change-out isn't going to be super tough.

The GTS is a V6 Eclipse car as well but surprisingly enough this car does NOT have better internals. Instead weaker ones. I have a handful of guys that brag up to me that their GTS on stock internals will stomp my car silly and  make me look bad. BUT does a GTS REALLY provide that much of a gain?? The answer is NO!! The GTS has an extra 10hp, that's it! An extra 10 Horsepower can easily be negated by a driver in the other car that is driving the GT, that has a better reaction timing than the GTS driver. Even then an extra 10 HP is only going to land him a few thousands of a second advantage.  The GTS is a car that is hard to come by now. I know that someday they will be more exclusive as time progresses.

Nitrous: You know I hate how the fast and furious portrays Nitrous as a rush of light flashing before your eyes. It LOOKS cool, but no, no, no. It just doesn't work like that. If i was a person investing in nitrous for this car. It would apply to my short article about the guy you just flipped off and are running from on the highway. I live in a county with a TON of nut jobs that even if you look at them funny, or just pass them they get all hot and bothered that YOU passed them. Infact i do my best to pass them 3 car lengths away and they STILL get mad. The nitrous system is for the person that has to deal with jerks that chase you because they are pricks. I would use it as an EMERGENCY application.

Nitrous systems: If you have the GT 3.0L car and/or you are NOT wanting to spend lots of cash on major performance upgrades and having to pull pistons out of a motor and/or paying someone to do it  BUT you have the issue of needing more power here and there.   Then ZEX offers a kit for you! Their 82021 system is designed to run in our cars and the installation isn't too bad. This kit offers a fail safe plug and play system so you do NOT have to worry about destroying your motor nearly as fast. This kit includes different jets that allow you to reduce or increase the output of the system. This prevents you from having to do a bunch of work with tuning (only when using their 55 HP shot nozzle) Having this kit is for EMERGENCIES and should be used sparingly! I would never want a person to spray constantly or you will have to expect putting together a budget on a whole rebuild. This kit is there for the absolute nasty situations out there.

How does it work? Well for basic starters, this kit ONLY engages the spray when your car is in full throttle. A box that you set comes with the kit. It has a logic controller that hooks into or splices into your throttle position sensor. This sensor is set by you depressing the accelerator ALL the way down BEFORE you turn the key to the run position on your ignition switch. The unit then only registers as the pedal was depressed fully or within parament to warrant it to trigger itself. This kit is NOT a rapid fire system. You cant just press the button at any one time and expect to spray. You flip the arming switch and then when it detects the accelerator is fully pressed it will then spray. This is so you do NOT have to sit down and do your homework on air/fuel mixture ratios and worry about leaning out your fuel flow if your gas pedal isn't fully down.

This kit is a "wet kit" which means you have a fuel line connected from your shrader valve off your fuel rail that feeds a "Y" junction connected to your intake pipe. This junction has nitrous and fuel being fed into the intake at the same time. Wet nitrous is MUCH more safe than "dry" nitrous systems. You can run this kit on stock internals and a healthy motor should last quite some time through random sprays here and there.

Uses for Nitrous

1. Getting away from Angry red necks.
2. That jerk in the BMW driving slow down the road, decides to step on it while you pass him.
3. The stupid socker mom drafting a Semi truck that decides to step on it in the slow lane when you are trying to pass the semi on the interstate.

Nitrous is NOT a Sugar cube in the glass of salt water, but it does give you an edge that can be helpful from time and time again.

Legality of Nitrous: Most if not ALL cars that have nitrous connected to them ready to run is usually ILLEGAL. It is best advised that you HIDE the bottle in a place where it wont be searched for. Don't brag about it, don't talk about it. Fill it, leave it and don't get the urge to turn on the system unless you "REALLY REALLY need it!"

Turbocharging a  2000-2005, 4-cylinder eclipseNEW

I would have part 2'd this but my blog posts are exceeding my space limit. This blog is how to MODERATELY turbocharge your vehicle. I'm not going to cover kicking out 300HP in application, but someone who wants to take a STOCK eclipse and give it just a tad bit of new life (A 4psi-5psi application)

A Turbo system requires that you purchase the turbocharger of course, Then the most important piece, THE exhaust manifold.  I personally prefer the T3/T4 turbocharger over any other turbo. THEN you will need to have an exhaust shop custom weld a pipe to the external wastegate. They sell T3/T4 Flanges that come with a way to plug an external wastegate in, but not way of routing it to the other side of the turbo. When you purchase the External wastegate I would seek out one with a preset spring of no more than 4-5psi for factory internals.

After you have those pieces picked out your turbocharger will require that you run an oil line to it and an oil line from it. There are people that choose to purchase an OIL sandwich instead of drilling into the engine block for an oil supply. I have no comments about this procedure at this time. I guess it's really up to you!  The Turbocharger will need an adapter flange for both the inlet and outlet oil lines of the turbo so you can plug the oil lines into it. After you have installed the oil lines you will have to route the exhaust gas from the exhaust system into your turbocharger.  I guess as long as you have NOT routed the compressor side  of the turbo into your intake manifold you should be able to limp to an exhaust shop and have them weld a piece so you can connect your turbocharger to your exhaust system.

 NOW after you have your oil lines in place, your turbo attached to the car's exhaust system. You can begin connecting the compressor side of the turbo. With this you can choose to do an air/intercooler or a water/intercooler. The air intercoolers require tons of room. Lots of plumbing and disassemble your car's bumper and trying to run HUGE sized metal pipe through the whole car. I am not a fan of this. I prefer water/air intercoolers.  They are smaller in size. You can IMMEDIATELY come off of the outlet of the turbo compressor housing and pipe it to this intercooler. The intercooler will REQUIRE that you run a separate 12v Ignition-switch constant-on  fluid pump to it. A fluid radiator  has to be mounted at the front of the car infront of the coolant radiator  and even a reservoir to hold the coolant you put into this system.

Blow-off valves. Everyone loves the sound of a BOV (Blow off valve) Now what is a blow off valve used for exactly? It is used when you let off the gas pedal of the car to either shift, slow down or change gears. You hear a "swoosh" of air or a whistle-swoosh. This is because the throttle has closed and the air has nowhere to travelSo the blow-off valve will vent to the atmosphere and and prevent a "back spool" But if you do NOT have a blow-off valve the air has nowhere to travel but back through the turbocharger thus Back-spooling and will ruin your engine and it can get real nasty! Depending on the car and how the unit is positioned, sometimes it requires a bypass valve or just the blow off valve, depending upon how your throttle position sensor is  a They make plenty of kits out there to adapt a blow off valve to the system. I've seen people take JB-Weld and weld their BOV's to these flanges.

Blow off valves part II: I am an avid fan of the "Tial Q" style blow off valves. They allow for more airflow, they dont' squeek and they vent the best. I see many people and HEAR many people that use "squeeking" BOVs. These bov's are just childish in my books. These BOV's have horns, and small pipes that come out of them. Unless you are afraid of the supposed "air sucking" back into the intake pipe through one. (which I don't see how it would happen) and using a small air filter clamped to it. Then buy a TIAL style BOV. They work the best and sound the best.  Another note; A BOV should NEVER suck air back in because it is a check valve!

Turbo chatter: The size of your BOV makes the biggest difference here. A turbo chatters because there is additional air being pressed against the turbo due to the BOV not venting enough air. I know that a FLANGED BOV is better than a weldable one. That way if you need to jump up from 44mm to 52mm or even purchasing a DUAL BOV may be necessary.

I will cover more installation on the BOV later.

Wastegate: With turbochargers there are 3 different ways that a turbo controls it's boost. 1. It has an INTERNAL wastegate, 2. It has an external wastegate and 3 it is Variable geometry.

An internal wastegate is pretty much set in it's own way. It has a built in diaphram that opens and closes to allow exhaust stream around the compressor wheel. They take up less space in some rights and in others more.

External Wastegate: there are multiple sizes again for this application and you are going to have to decide what you want to do with this. I see this in 38mm, 60mm, 44mm, 50mm, and a few others. One of the largest issues that will back you into the wall is the issue of how permanent these is what kind of a response you will get from the different sizes even though it's the same PSI. You will get turbo creep or overboost even though you set it at 4psi. It is important to NEVER overboost!

Boost controllers: I don't recommend them mounted inside the cab. Unless your entire system is completely automated and you have spent the time and money on a system that controls everything from an external computer inside the car! Now if you are tired of playing around with tunes and you do NOT want to mess with that wastegate next to your exhaust system anymore, than an external boost controller is fine. You can use that to mount somewhere inside the engine bay, adjust things very SLIGHTLY. This is NOT something you show up to a race, turn the thing on full boost and expect to win. You will lean out right then and there upon stepping the gas, the only SHOW you will give anyone is a car that is up in flames! If you turn up the turbo, you must turn up the fuel. If you are doing BOTH of these. You had better of upgraded your engine internals profusely because it will be your last race for a very long time.

Now onto fuel; Fuel is something a turbo must have turned up, depending upon your boost. A turbocharger alone doesn't just magically make your car faster by compressing air in the intake. Things such as Fuel and spark timing may have to be most likely altered. An Air/fuel gauge is your friend. Your goal should be to monitor for Lean-ness of the fuel. If you have a lean mixture you make get a nice fireball going under your hood depending on how bad you overdid it. While too much fuel can cause lots of un-burnt fuel to burn up in your initial exhaust stream. This car uses a digital fuel system and reprogramming the fuel maps to what you are running is more than likely going to be a necessity.

Turbo preferences: I am a huge fan of turbonetics. The military uses them. I use them. Turbonetics is a great product. I would NEVER buy a factory no-name brand turbo off of ebay. Now other things that are not AS essential such as the pipes, intercoolers and flanges, is a hit and miss off of flea-bay. I dont' care as much about those things (although I should).

Other turbo brands. Well there is Garret ( one of the largest turbo manufacturers in the world) HKS, G-Reddy, and of course Turbonetics. I know there are other brand name ones and I will list them later.

Turbo size: Turbo size is very important. They measure turbo size such as TRIM A/R. The sizes they report will be sizes related to the size of the exhaust turbine housing and the compressor turbine housing as well as the initial wheel size of the spinning part. I would take the longest time researching a turbo before you purchase it. Then after you have your exhaust manifold in place I would determine how much room you have to mount it. Just because the turbo is HUGE doesn't mean it can fit. A huge factor to turbo'ing is you must ask yourself what you want more of. High acceleration, with a low top speed, Low acceleration with a HIGH top speed or the quest for a happy medium.

In essence I am asking you. Do you have encounters out on the highways or at stoplights and in-town driving? I do a lot of highway driving so a larger turbo benefits me more, but someone who drives in-town needs a smaller turbo.

Turbocharger Intakes: I can not stress enough about locating your filter ELSEWHERE instead of right off of the turbocharger. I would choose to locate and pipe the filter away from the turbo and where most cold air systems locate it. Behind the left side of the front bumper.  Even though you are intercooling the air already, it is just a better idea to make sure you are prolonging the life of an already hot turbo. K&N Apollo filter system is something I would most definitely recommend. If you are limited on space, which I am sure you are, I would attach the filter housing to the inlet of the turbo, then route the flexible pipe it comes with, anywhere on the car that allows you to suck air from a safe area that does NOT have a high risk of sucking water in.

Intercooler advice: I guess most people would feel safer or even more "bad ass" if they had an intercooler in the front of their car. Just remember it costs LOTS of money to plumb more and more through the car. People who see this will say "hey that's a great race right there" Law enforcement goes "lunch time" and if your insurance man sees it, time for a price hike! IN all honesty a 4-5psi application probably does NOT need an intercooler. Water to air intercoolers don't require much installation via the plumbing side for air, which in all honesty, eats up most of your space right there. Vs having to plumb a bunch of tubing to your turbo, then from it to your intercool sitting in front of your car, then back into the intake manifold, i would go -_-. Another big thing to think about is... If someone doesn't like you they can ram a flathead screwdriver very easily into your intercooler and cause more damage than a punctured radiator! Also, bare in mind that at speeds of 70mph+ if a rock hits that intercooler, you are looking at the same situation!

Auto mechanics and shops: Auto technicians surprisingly will NOT gouge you to death when it comes to having this stuff installed. If you are absolutely wanting someone to professional install your equipment you purchased instead of you. They are MORE than happy to help! This means that they did NOT have to take the time to run out and look up parts, order them in and do all the crap-work to get your project underway. They may claim that they hold no liability and may make you sign a waiver. DO IT. These guys have a daily grind of changing window motors, alternators, power steering pumps and all of the crappy sensors that are put on modern cars. Most of the time these guys will CUT you a break, because it's an exciting task at hand! There is no shame in asking someone to do this for you. Now if it's some 60+ year old man at the desk or service center they don't want to see you in there with your eclipse or honda. If you had a 1979 or older vehicle, then you bet he would work on it! I have lots of dumb projects and small projects that sometimes I needed another person there to touch up something for me and they are ALWAYS happy to help.

Car part financing: How do I afford to do this? Well for starters you can purchase your car parts, paycheck to paycheck. Buy one piece this paycheck, then another piece this paycheck. There is NO way you will save up the total sum of what it will cost to build this system ($3,000) by socking it away in a savings account or cookie jar) It's not feasible. Life throws everything at you and with each and every time you try to save, your money will be spent by you with some other reckless desire or something else stupid. Take your money right away, without a second thought and purchase each car part one at a time! 

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Tuesday, August 12, 2014

3G Eclipse Body kits, bumpers, intercoolers and side skirts facts

I am sure if you have owned the 3G eclipse, or are planning on purchasing one. You may have looked at a body kit.

There are a lot of UGLY body kits out there for this car. The 3G eclipse already has a very outstandingly unique body style in it's own right. BUT there is of course the question of a body kit.

Body kits, or the Front bumper especially do NOTHING to improve performance on this particular car. The drag coefficient on this car is already low enough that adding an additional change to the bumper would harm your performance.

So when is the exception to this rule. Should you decide that you would like to run an intercooler on this car. The necessity of having to change your front bumper in order to intercool is the best bet. The intercooler will NOT fit on a stock 3G eclipse without major modifications as well as it's just a whole lot easier to do JUST change that front. The front bumper fits neerly flush with the metal frame, allowing NO room for an intercooler to sit up front.

Should you decide to turbo charge the vehicle, about the only option out there available is the "water-to-air intercooler option" A Water to air system is just like what your car already has, a radiator that is connected via heater hoses. Only this is it's own separate system.

Side skirts: The 3g eclipse already comes with a nice set of side skirts from the factor. so there is no need to do much more with this.

Front bumper retro fit: The 3g eclipses came stock with 2 different types of bumpers. One with a "large mouth" (2000-2002) and the other that looks like a Stingray mouth. (2003-2005) I am going to sit down and discuss a 2001 to 2003 retrofit here in the next few months.

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Monday, August 11, 2014

3G eclipse Brakes and brake rotors

The 3g Eclipse is blessed to have such excellent designers meaning... Their engineers were generous to NOT cheep out on us. This car has 4 brake rotors.

So what should I do with my brake rotors???  Well Like all of us, we love flashy rotors, but what is practical and what is NOT practical? A study by GM done just a few years ago has debunked myths and facts on Standard, drilled, drilled and slotted and slotted rotors. All of these test results were tested every day, through temperate climates, as well as heavy city driving, including going up and down 6% mountain grades. Such as  Donner pass and etc.

I will reiterate these facts in short hand because 1. The material is copyrighted in a PDF document done by the General Motors corporation and 2. You may not want to read all the technical data. This study was conducted on a 2-3 year study on all the types of rotors available and with the same brake pads.

You can find that link on the internet, easy enough. SO I am not going to bother putting a link in my blog (in fear of copyright infringement or some stupid rule)

Plain rotors: Plain rotors are pretty self explanatory, they are a friction surface to stop on.

Slotted rotors: Drivers migrated to these rotors due to the myth that  people were led to believe that drilled rotors chewed up brake pads. To GM's discovery SLOTTED rotors led to much, much worse wear and tare on the brake pads. GM Also found that a large accumulation of brake dust would build up inside the slots and cause excessive brake fade.  Slotted rotors have another disadvantage. They DO have much less braking surface.

Drilled and slotted rotors: These rotors performed the worst out of all the brake rotors on the market. The drill and slots eliminated what little space there already is to stop on and just turned it into a nightmare. Despite them looking cool, they are NOT safe to drive on.

Drilled rotors. Surprisingly enough, drilled rotors did the best (ie rotors with holes drilled in them) They have holes in them and look amazing,. BUT are they practical for this car.?? The answer is YES. Drilled rotors are surprisingly much better for stopping, they cool down the rotors substantially and they do infact NOT FADE the brake pads as one would might think (chewing up the pads) The drilled holes in high quality rotors will not eat up a brake pad like one may think. GM Found that stopping times were improved considerably better, drivers did NOT over brake as they learned how to compensate for a slight "give" in the foot pedaling and infact found it eliminated locked up brake situations.

Also drilled rotors'  stopping times were much more improved vs Conventional plain rotors and scored much higher marks on longevity as the pads and rotors stayed much cooler, thus eliminating brake wear.

Conclusions and thoughts. Right now I would strongly Recommend the StopTech brand of Drilled rotors for this car. You will have a much more enjoyable experience and it is not only worth the style, but it just could save your life!

Ebay (aka fleabay) brakes and rotors: I see many CHEEP rotors on the ebay market that are drilled rotors. They are budget for a reason. if they do NOT have a brand name by them that it is trusted. Don't risk it. There are plenty of horror stories on the internet about people who bought fleabay brakes and they shattered on them or flew apart while they were driving. Don't buy from no-name brand and brands that are NOT listed on the internet!!!

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Sunday, August 10, 2014

3G Eclipse Exhaust system

 Updated July 28th, 2016

Exhaust tips and advice.

With this car, you CAN do a 2g Eclipse exhaust on a 3g eclipse Vehicle retrofit:  I did a lot of research on this matter, that a person can take a 2g Eclipse Cat-back exhaust system and put it in  place of the 3g factory exhaust with some minor adjustments. BUT, since you probably want to know more about just the mufflers,  First off, if you are looking for "The best muffler for the 3G eclipse" You have 2 scenarios that are discussed in this article. IN a Short-hand note, before reading into this article. I recommend the 4.5" Tsudo N1 as the best muffler, The JIC Magic 4.5" , Apexi, or HKS. Now if you have a certain sound quality desire you want, YOU HAVE TO READ THE REST OF THIS ARTICLE!!

Some advice and tips I found from a lot of people was: If you are NOT running a turbo charger or super charger, do NOT and I MEAN do NOT put on a catback system of 3". The largest diameter listed for Stock an Naturally aspirated (naturally breathing motors, for those of you who are new to this) is 2.5". Minus the size of the muffler. Muffler size isn't as important. It burns me to see how many systems for this car are in 3" exhaust. It is absolutely stupid. So far the only systems I have seen that were/are for the eclipse in 2.25/2.5" was the Tsudo systems for the GS/RS and the Invidia exhaust for the 3g eclipse stock system. Everyone else uses that design.

To revise this section so people better understand this blog. There are 2 types of cars out there that are the V6 GT Eclipse. Those who are "Federal spec'd cars" and those who are "California spec'd Cars" Both cars generate very different results. The more you modify them the more you will find out which does what. So I am going to begin clarify these sections.

  • Federal: These cars have only 1 Catalytic convertor that is located on the exhaust stream where a Car normally has a Cat convertor.

  • California Spec cars: These cars have 3 Convertors. One on each exhaust manifold bank, and then 1 on the main exhaust stream, bringing you to a total of 3 convertors. 

I have listed in this blog, 2 very long drawn out sections that will cover more specifics so you can understand why these are 2 very different scenarios. I apologize for the re-edit, but I felt as though everyone reading this deserves a fair vantage point.

 The "Federal Spec 3g V6 Eclipse"

So what is the grail tone (The best muffler) for the 3g eclipse FEDERAL SPEC, to sound the best. No burble, but an extremely nasty loud sound that can be heard several miles away at 2,500rpm highway driving.

1. The invidia exhaust. Install an invidia cat-back exhaust system.

1.b then take off the original invidia muffler that it has on it and install a 3" Tsudo, Apexi', or HKS muffler. (Very preferably HKS by far!)

2. A flowmaster Hushpower II resonator muffler, in place of the resonator that came with the exhaust. If your car IS the California spec car, then you will NO benefit from doing this to your ride.

Now for some solid explanations and thoughts to help you out!

1. For starters on the Hushpower II. this muffler has baffles in it. Surprisingly you NEED some sort of exhaust restriction. Unless you are at a race track strictly to drag race, tare down your motor and rebuild it every weekend. Then back pressure IS your friend! You need to have X amount of back pressure to hold some exhaust back to allow the valves to close easier. This helps with fuel millage and power for a daily driver.

2. The invidia exhaust itself has LOTS of burble to it. By placing a small baffled muffler in the center where the exhaust resonator is. this cleans up that nasty "burble" sound and makes your car sound like a really bad mofo car. it gives it a rich purr and sounds more along the lines of something that is not a poser mobile.

3. If you decide to buy just a "performance" muffler for your car, it will NOT improve your power THAT much, If any. It's just for show and sound. I suggest leaving the silencer in for back pressure. It may not be nearly as loud, but its going to save you a lot of issues down the road. (again if your car is NOT a California spec)

4. Any muffler you decide to attach weather it be JUST the muffler or a whole exhaust system, have it welded. Co2 leaks can abruptly can cause death or severe asphyxiation issues. We had a buddy of ours pass away due to a botched muffler job he did. So do NOT ever play around with NOT paying someone to professionally install your system.

Power adding:

Real power adding for this car: The factory exhaust system is pretty well balanced on this car for design, minus the back muffler, but if you want real power gains for this car is to look into exhaust headers.. Preferably short tube for budget, or if you have time to pay someone to re-program your car, would be long tube. But if that is the case and you are about to spend $1,000 on the vehicle, Just go ahead and buy that twin turbo kit from RPW Australia. Exhaust headers are going to be the best bet on any vehicle's n/a (naturally breathing) It allows exhaust gases to equally pass down through the system and not create some sort of heavy resistance.

Other Great sounding exhaust system options. (just remember to add in the Hushpower II by flowmaster)

#1 Invidia

#2 Tanabe

#3 Greddy Ti-C

As for performance, they are pretty much all equally matched.


The N1 Muffler:  If you are going to install the N1 Muffler to this car, I would go at least something with a 4.5" Tip on the end of it. Surely they have MUCH, MUCH more batting in them. 4" mufflers often do NOT look flush on this car. They look TINY. Yes many people sit there and scream "fart pipe" "fart cannon" or shart pipe. But a larger piped 4.5"/115mm Piped N1 muffler does sound exceptional on this car. The V6 motor has a lot going for it already on a sound base. So NO it will NOT sound like a Weed eater powering this car. Now if you went with something with thin batting such as the 4" muffler and you are being made fun of. I don't feel sorry for you! I will stand by my statement as I said from the begining. The HKS would be the best muffler for this car, followed by a Tsudo and/or Apexi.

GS/RS owners can't pull off the N1 muffler without sounding like a coked out squirrel under the hood. Sorry guys. A Turbocharger will be the ONLY thing that improves your sound. As stated before, if you have the 4 Cylinder eclipse. I wouldn't even give it a second thought, I would proceed with turbo charging it regardless.

Bare in mind, yet again. That N1 mufflers do NOT add horsepower! They only change the sound of your car. That's it.


Okay, So there is another question I have GOT to answer for everybody. "I have installed a muffler alone on this car with the silencer in and/or as well as the Hushpower II and I have NO extra sound output. What is going on? " I would be more than happy to answer this question for you. Chances are you have a 2001 or 2002 Eclipse. These cars have 3 catalytic convertors. One on each exhaust manifold bank and a 3rd one that is located where a cat convertor would normally sit. Cat convertors act as a thick baffled system in the exhaust stream and severely deadens the sound coming from the motor. Tree huggers lobbied for laws about using them and theorize that a cat convertor filled full of platinum or expensive metals supposedly makes the car burn cleaner.  Which leads me to the next section!.....


The following advice is for "off road use only" and may be subject to penalty by law. We are not held liable for your actions upon reading this section. 

California spec'ed cars are the bane of my existence However you do not have to apply great efforts to get a great sound from this car. Simply put, You can chop off the muffler at the end and put on a fully open N1 muffler with NO silencer in it and it sounds plenty loud. By removing the silencer or not even running with one, you won't do any apparent harm to your Cal-spec car, and your fuel milleage does infact, go up!. It sounds very amazing and just overall cuts some issues down with the already, cursed exhaust stream restrictions..... HOWEVER..... you are going to ask this question.....

For one, Any type of a system change weather it be a new cat-back or headers isn't going to change your sound output to be super crazy loud. slicing Convertors OFF, will.. The muffler itself being sliced off from OEM to aftermarket i would say say gets up to around 110db, but nothing like the Federal specs can get at.

How to resolve this issue? Well in my personal opinion a 3rd cat convertor is doing more harm than good. If you already have 2. I would go ahead and slice off the 3rd one. But as to finding a muffler shop that would do this, good luck. There are lots and lots of rules regarding  cat convertors. Federal laws infact! Dumb laws such as; it is illegal to replace a convertor unless it is proven to be malfunctioning. As well as " the replacement convertor must be a direct factory OEM replacement"If you are wanting to replace the #3 convertor they sell "test pipes" as well as fake cat convertors that look like the real deal. A muffler shop will still be able to tell the difference upon installation. You will have to use an "o2 sensor bung" or as they call them an "SES or CEL FOOLER"; preferably an angled one. This allows the oxygen sensor to sit outside of the exhaust stream or you will throw an engine code and you will fail an emissions test. The trouble code that will be thrown is something regarding a catalytic convertor failing upon warm up.  If you decided on the header swap  you will have to buy multiple "Foolers" for your O2 sensor ports. (roughly 4 of these) The science behind fooling the SES system is more or less an artform. You will have to play around with all different sizes. Most often you can throw a lean code. SO have a handful of different sized SES O2 sensor foolers with you. SO you don't burn your motor up.

  • "will my car pass emissions test after I remove the 3rd convertor?" yes it still should pass. Frankly having the 3rd convertor is a waste. They are wanting to squeeze an extra bit of "nox reduction" However it cuts your performance and fuel mileage.

  • Should I remove all 3? I would say no. The car can still perform decently with just 2 on. 3 cylinders feed into each convertor so you don't have as great of a restriction on the motor.

If you are installing aftermarket headers on a 2000-2002 eclipse, You will have to remove the front 2 cat convertors. There is not a single kit out on the market that I know of that will allow you to keep the convertors. IN this instance I would go ahead and leave the 3rd convertor or weld it in place. You must still have some sort of back pressure and the 3rd convertor helps provide this. Plus it mellows out the sound instead of running open headers. Open headers on this small of a car, will even make a V6 sound "rice" or have that weird "rasp" to them. 

Part II

Here are 2 things to think about that you may be asking yourself, about now. What is more cost effective. taking off the 2 convertors at the exhaust manifold, via replacing the system with short tube or long tube headers and leaving the 3rd convertor. Or gutting the 3rd convertor and leaving the other 2 at the front of the motor. Personally in my opinion, your guess is as good as mine. I think there is much more leniency and much lower detection should you decide to alter the headers and their convertors.

A leo will normally NOT check under your hood, as they are not instructed how a car's ENTIRE emissions systems work. The most he may know is to look for the convertor underneath the car and even then if he is willing to lay down on the ground to look under a car that sits that low to the ground. He opens himself up to safety, such as not being able to  see you, or oncoming traffic. But all the same, you can be subject to an emissions check.

  • Which is louder, Removing the 2 at the exhaust manifold or the 3rd one on the main exhaust stream? IF you remove ONLY the 3rd one on the exhaust stream, it will be semi-loud with a loud buzz to it with some extra tone. If you decide to pull both cats off on the exhaust manifold and add in headers it will sound more "rice" the only way to get rid of the rice sound is to use a hushpower II down stream or keep the 3rd convertor on. An all open exhaust system sounds a cross between "rice" and a subaru WRX. 

Final thoughts. You can be subject to an entire examination of your car, IF you are found illegally racing on the streets. If you are doing this and an officer decides to pop your hood, demand an inspection. You can state your rights, BUT your rights are limited if you are already breaking the law. Be responsible!

Headers are the real power adder to this car for anything that is Naturally aspirated. Here are some brands to look at.

1. RPW Long tube headers (requires a tune reguardless) These are the best headers on the market to use. These are for the motorist that has upgraded camshafts, pistons, rods, valves, springs as well as having the fuel flow turned up.

2. RPW Short tube headers (Perfect for a basic street performance vehicle)

3. OBX Headers (These headers come with a factory EGR Bung) Just fine for a street enthusiast seeking some extra kick.

4. Megan Headers and megan header clones; These headers do not have any type of a curve to them, they are at a 45 degree slant from the rear exhaust bank. These headers are notorious for a "rice" or rasp sound, due to poor quality flex sections and design. Often times you will see these for $140-$250 depending upon who you buy them from. They all seam the same to me.

To stay on a tight budget, the OBX headers seam at best the most ideal option to pursue for this car. RPW headers run $500+ and can break your budget very easy. I would still run 1 cat convertor on this exhaust stream. It will save you a cat-convertor violation, plus it helps provide some additional back pressure and "rasp" elimination. 

Other Exhaust brands:

I can NOT find DC sport headers and cat-backs anymore. I heard they were really great headers. I emailed their company in summer of 2014, I told them that I was a person who writes articles about car parts and promotes them. The company emailed me back a nasty-gram stating that they had no intentions of starting up the production line for this car again as it was "too out dated". Me personally,   I heard that both their Cat-back systems and their headers were among the best. IN my personal opinion this company would make a butt-load of money still selling them. I would like to personally ask my readers to ALL email DC sports and demand that they bring back 3G eclipse products to the market. Exhaust systems, the mufflers and to show that they care about us because we are willing to put money back into these cars continually!

  • Tsudo: Again I am not seeing anything from this company anymore out there. I don't know why they disappeared off the market. The sound on these systems really do shake the windows quite well!

  • Hytech: I have NO experience with hytech headers or systems. I've heard a lot of praise about them, but I have no leads as to where to find these products at this point in time. Too bad they are NOT around.

  • Skorpion exhaust. (yes thats how it is spelled, I think...) I mainly see these out for vehicles such as BMWs and Audis. There are rumors that at one point in time they did manufacture exhaust parts for the tuner scene.

Is trying to sound cool a childish thing? No it is not. If you know much about Ferrari Engineers and Porsche engineers they harmonically tune their exhaust systems to be musically in tune to a degree. They use parallel mufflers with 2-4 pipes connected to each other in parallel to create harmonic resonance. They are spending thousands upon thousands of dollars to create a signature "sound".

Audi's and Nissan exhaust manufactures use specially designed systems with an additional can- like structure to create a specific exhaust note: This is called a "helmholtz resonator" for exhaust systems. Visually you will find these devices to be a can that is welded to the side of the exhaust stream. These cans do NOT have an outlet opening on them, instead they are welded shut.

Other environmental laws and restrictions etc. I know that this is not allowed in a few states and again, is punishable by law, that some motorists choose to license their car in another state that does NOT have emissions inspection laws. Often times I find that there are states that allow you to license your car there because they want the tax revenue instead. Our state use to have an emissions law, but it came to the point where people were paying off the mechanics to pass them and it was rendered in-effective. In my sincerest opinion, emissions laws on vehicles do NOT fix smog. Regulating air craft and being intelligent about where emissions come from, IS. If you think about it, here in the US smog is caused by drift from whatever is west of that state and/or area. If you are smart enough to realize that emissions are heaviest around airports, that is where it comes from!

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Saturday, August 9, 2014

3G Eclipse Headlight Fact and bulb guide

So you want to upgrade the headlights on the 3G eclipse, Good for you! The stock headlights on this car are really annoying and they do NOT provide amazing light output. Now here are advice and tips I am going to discuss.

On the 3g eclipse the Factory headlights match the contour of the car. Unlike it's previous model of car. Which in my opinion, had a MUCH better headlight design. The 3G eclipse stock headlamps are notorious for getting scuffed up, damaged and they are extremely pricey to replace. You will find yourself in the same boat as you were in, about 1 year later. To start off from the ground up. You must know this. Because of the STUPID design of these headlamp housings, you can NOT run them in chrome. Chrome may look sharp, and they may be cheaper (there is a solid reason why they are!) They create a glare in the fog and in the rain that WILL blind you! NOt an "if" not a "could" but a "WILL blind you!" I don't care if they are silver or metallic black, it does the same thing!  Straight out of the gate, I recommend the DEPO BRAND projector headlights. These run $180-$250. You can watch "Fleabay" or Amazon for great prices on these. If you are STILL not able to afford the DEPO's than the Sonars will suffice for now. An additional caution to users of all of the different types of headlights out there. When you shop for a "projector housing" At all cost you need to search for a housing that has projectors that are to the very sides of the cars. In otherwords the projector should always be in the position of being as close to the side, NOT toward the center mass of the car. Projectors such as "Anzo's" do the opposite of the rest of the crowd. This creates a very DULL output for light and will put you in even more danger. Just because the projector is bigger, doesn't mean it is better! Finally there is a set of headlights out there with nothing for output. These housings sit in small valley's with absolutely no way of producing light.. I don't remember the official name for them. But anyway you can look up Depo's as a first choice and Sonar as a second.

HID in "Depo" housings: are a DO NOT DO!
 I used Depo Projector headlights for almost  half a year with Morimoto HID system. I can tell you from flat out experience that running HID bulb and ballasts in these projectors doesn't do well. I do a lot of commuting at night at found that the PIAA H7 or Philips bulbs with 4000k listed as "extreme white" IS much better. PLUS If your ballast dies on you on the side of the road, or your HID bulb goes bad. You are out of luck. The soonest a bulb or a ballast will reach you is a MINIMUM of 3 days.Currently there is honestly not a good DUAL HID ballast or system setup for this. I would personally tell people NOT to ever bother using this system unless you do a Single projector custom project. IE a retrofit. After using a dual system from morimoto I was flat out disgusted with the quality of the system. I can say the parts are there, but as for advice or tips for doing this. It's all a guessing game.

HID bulbs are cool in looks, but if you are out on the country roads at night and commuting in the dark. Anything higher than 4300k and you wont see that deer in the roads. After being frustrated, broke after my job loss from where I worked at,  I came to the realization that I still do lots of travels to see all my buddies in the late hours of the evening. So it was time to swap the housings back to the original wiring and bulb fixtures.  I had to chase down a bunch of the original wiring plugs for the housing. Which was multiple factory replacement H7 Harnesses. I chose the factory replacement harnesses due to their wire Gauge. Most of the aftermarket H7 "adapters" (not harnesses) are a much thinner wire gauge and can cause major issues. I had to go in there and  use heat-shrink, electrical tape and a soldering Iron, as a person has to wire the Eclipse Factory 9003 plug and make all the original wiring for these depo headlamps. If you don't do such a method and hard wire your lamps from your car, that is a recipe for disaster.

Bulbs: Don't ever waste your money with the Sylvania headlight bulbs, they are marked up in price and especially the bulbs that are colored blue. I saw little to no gains from these bulbs in these housings, INCLUDING on all my work vehicles. PIAA is definitely a bulb that is worth the extra bucks, but I would still say Philips is better!  Mind you, I loved that HID crystal white-ish blue welding color in the lights, but it was NOT helpful at all. So with that being said I have DEPO projector housings that are re-bulbed with H7 Philips Extreme.

Depo housings are hard to come by in a strictly black color scheme. This housing NEEDS to be black! This is to prevent a dangerous glare that emits from their silver housings they make. The headlights for this care are just WEIRD and in my opinion the factory was stupid about how they did it. Yes it is a sleek look but in extreme fog, haze and rain this is almost too dangerous.  It will be much more expensive to purchase the black housings, but car wrecks  and your life aren't worth loosing!

Depo Projector housing Bulb Size: 2x H7 bulbs, same wattage for high and low. Comes with pre-installed 9003 to Dual H7 bulb adapter harness built into housing (no re-wiring needed!) If you have the Depo projector housing there are people that chose to use 65w "Rally car" H7 bulbs in them, I don't see any harm in using a high wattage bulb in a high beam, as long as you responsibly switch them off, at the first sight of a vehicle down the road.

3G Eclipse Bulb sizes

Rear Turn signal bulb: 1156    (Single bulb, LED's require load resistor and 1156 adapter)
Backup Light: 1156
Brake/Running  light: 2057        (dual filament, stays dim, then brightens for stops)
Truck center Stop bulb: 921 R        (letters denote bulb color)
2000-2002 Fog Light bulb:  H3
Factory non-aftermarket headlight bulb : 9003      (Dual Beam/filament bulb)
Instrument panel bulbs for gauges: 2721-Y     (letters denote bulb color)
License plate bulb: 168
Parking light: 1157
REAR Side Marker bulbs   (built into backup housing): 168 R
Rearview Mirror bulb:  168   (recommend Sylvania LED)

Bulb Brands: I recommend Philips for Headlights on the car and if you want, PIAA. But I would avoid Sylvania Headlights on this car, as most of Sylvania headlamps are overrated. Philips makes quality standard bulbs, but their LED bulbs are terrible.

Recap for this car: Black Depo projector housings with PIAA H7 bulbs (the depo converts the factory output harness to 2x H7s) and call it a day. An HID conversion isn't going to benefit you in the long run.

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Friday, August 8, 2014

3G eclipse Projector retrofit and HID revisted

Okay, okay I will visit this one and touch this on my OWN perspective of retrofits.

HID itself is something that luxury cars, and new cars have. They are bulbs that fit inside a housing that do NOT use a standard wiring system. Behind these bulbs sit a wire with a ballast leading to them. If you go on ebay you can buy ANY kit out there that has HID stuff. CHEEP. And get that crazy crystal blue look. It looks awesome when you get a 6000k bulb in there, BUT it will not help you see at night. The darker the color, the worse it gets.

Now for everyone spewing out obscenities when it comes to retrofits and why I will NOT try them or review them? First Off. I love mods, but I refuse to sit down and spend time modding a headlight housing to spend time baking it in the oven on a low temp, using a heat gun, epoxies and paints to somehow snap a luxury car's projectors into the original housing, then successfully making it so it can be aimed, operated and function correctly. I welcome anyone and everyone to mass produce a housing for this car that uses a single projector with a luxury car's projector housing in them. As well as to USE a flat surfaced panel instead of a painted reflector as the adjustment arm for your projector. With the last but not least statement of totally integrated ballasts into the housing so it is plug and play.

When I had my Depo projector housings I had tried both the 5000k and 6000k offered by Morimoto. both which were too blue. You must USE the 4300k to see objects!

Morimoto Bulb quality: Morimoto bulbs are very high quality bulbs. They are going to be LOWER in glare than the rest of the bulbs you would find besides Factory D2S bulbs. their 4000k-ish bulb color should be the ONLY color you purchase.

Morimoto harnesses: As I stated earlier. They do NOT make a system that takes care of both hi and low beams at the same time. They don't. You are stuck having to use projectors that switch focal points when "high" is activiated" A solenoid opens at the base or top of the "cut off line" and allows more light to physically pass by it.

Other thoughts continuing on with true HID: I am starting to see people with 8,000k, 10,000k and even the purple bulbs out there for headlights. Unless you are taking these cars to show, don't use them! My state surprisingly has NO laws regarding HID bulbs. As long as they are NOT red, it doesn't matter! But what I will say is this; any higher, AGAIN.. any higher than 4000k/4300k and you wont see anything! Even if you think are you compromising at 5000k think again! SO what about LED reverse lights. I personally like them. I can say that colors and color temperatures for reverse lights are a different game all together. A reverse light with a temp of 5k does a BETTER job at illuminating close objects than it does distant or side objects. Drive lighting is one of those things you really have to sit down and study. Many road engineers are to this day studying these conditions. EVEN road surfaces can destroy headlight efficiency. There are 2 roads around here that I have to drive on once in awhile that if you go down them at night, even in pitch black with high beams on, the road does NOT illuminate. I've even tried large PIAA flood-spot lights and it's apparent that the surface of the road SUCKS light. It's weird, it's creepy and it's just strange.

If I have not changed your mind about HID "colors" and bulbs. Go buy your $30 kit, put the bulbs in your sealed beam headlights. Please POINT THEM DOWN. Go get a 5,000k or 6,000k and get it out of your system. City driving, sure. Highway and interstate traveling... no!

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Thursday, August 7, 2014

3G Mitsubishi Eclipse Factory OEM shift knob (manual transmission)

I've owned my eclipse for several years. As I continually become familiar with this car there is a pressing matter that just annoyed the crap out of me.

The factory shift knob. I searched up and down for months on end to replace this nu-since of a problem. The factory rubber shift knob that comes with this car is annoying and disgusting.I dont think I ever found one I liked other than a knob that Orielly auto parts had (but discontinued naturally) As they are a bunch of idiots that d/c the good stuff. Everything From metal shifters to other light up garbage that may look cool, but definitely can destroy your shift reaction time.

In the mean time with OEM shifters from other cars that fit the 10 metric thread most were off of BMWs audis and other fancy European sports cars.. But wait, they all would run nearly $100-200. Just for a dumb shift knob....

So what was my solution?? To buy another factory knob. But wait, WHAT? No I am serious, to an extent.  I went out and read up on the thread pitch and pattern for the factory manual shift knob on the 3G eclipse and found out that the 2G eclipse shares the SAME factory threads. So I set out on "fleabay" and started looking at my available options for a 96-99' Mitsubishi eclipse OEM Factory shift knob. To my luck after searching for months on end. I FOUND one that was BRAND new. Never been used, designed as a direct factory replacement to thread on an attach it to the shift post.

Removal of the knob:... is actually quite tough, it requires a good set of hands to unscrew the knob. There is NO hex-nut to remove if you have a factory knob. If you cant unscrew it with your hands, you can use a channel lock pliers or a large plumbing vice-grip (r). IN order to prevent from damaging the knob, I strongly recommend the use of a rag in between the knob and the pliers that you use. This will help minimize the damage by far!

Sure enough to my surprise after un-threading the factory knob and installing the 2g eclipse knob. It fit perfect. Granted the factory shift boot was a bit less lower, it was an exact fit! No mods. NOTHING. I would say it took some time to get used to, as the knob was about 1/8th of an inch lower than the factory knob, but it is so much more comfortable to deal with vs that annoying Ball knob it came with.

So why NOT use an aftermarket shift knob? Been there done that! I had a friend's car that we shared in high school. ( I am not saying the name of the car because it was a POS brand) But we thought we were cool, and headed out to the Auto store to buy "ricer parts". The very first thing I pulled off the shelf was a Shift knob that lit up. (GO FIGURE). We were stoked about this, but soon realized that after installing it. We had a VAST array of problems. The shift knob could ONLY be attached with an allen wrench (hex key) The next issue was, the power cord that had to be connected to it. Soooo where does this problem go next you might ask? Simply put, (or not so simply) we had a shift knob that would become loose, bounce around and while out having "Fun" in our cars, we would miss shifts, that is because this shift knob would bounce all over the place and make our shifts incredibly sloppy. The NEXT issue was,  the power cord leading to the knob would catch on stuff. SO our NICE, fun, glowing shift knob was more of a hinderance and SAFETY hazard to our driving. SO much so, that the actual KNOB broke OFF the post and that was that.

Did we learn our lesson??? HECK NO! After buying stupid things such as "skull shift knobs" the dice one, it was time to realize that our mistakes had been made, and that unless the aftermarket shift knob is from a REPUTABLE company with known success, CHEEP, $20 fancy shift knobs were NOT the way to go. Either Go OEM or GO HOME!!

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Wednesday, August 6, 2014

3G Mitsubishi Eclipse Oil Change

The Oil changes on the Mitusibishi is just  simple as can be. The oil drain, oil filler and oil FILTER are easy to get at.

I would right now recommend 2 products for the filters, but also a side note. This car is FUSSY on the oil filter you put in it. The 3G Eclipse can only take about 2 oil filters that allow it to run properly. The OEM direct Factory replacement by Mitsubishi themselves or the Mobil one black oil filter. All the rest of the oil filters out there such as Fram, Bosch and EVEN K&N Oil filters are NOT appreciated by the eclipse.

The oil filter is directly on the front of the motor (on the bottom of course) and the oil pan plug takes no guesswork to get at.

Oil: Currently I am finding that Valvoline Conventional motor oil is creating the best quality of motor oil.

I would never be using synthetic or any of these 'green recycled oils" in a vehicle. I played that game and 3 of my cars all choked at exactly 200,000 miles. The motor was done. These oils are extremely HARSH on motors and especially the synthetic oils. It will just eat the motor alive. If you think you are creating a "green environment" by using these oils, all you are doing is making a scrap heap much faster.

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Tuesday, August 5, 2014

3G Mitsubishi Eclipse rear factory wing

The rear factory wing/spoiler on this car is really a good component of the car. When Mitsubishi decided to create this car. the Spoiler wasn't just for show. it was for practicality too. I do NOT advise you taking this off. I see many eclipse owners swap theirs out with some other wing, most often ones that look like they belong to a subaru Impreza.

Since removing this wing on your vehicle is something I would not advise at all. I won't be giving you any tips or advice on this matter. The factory wing on this car serves a very important purpose. It does exactly what it is supposed to and there is NOT a single aftermarket spoiler/wing out there that will give you the slightest Edge.

If this car was a rear wheel drive car, then it would be practical, but ONLY at a high rate of speed and acceleration.

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Sunday, August 3, 2014

3G eclipse Suspension

The 3g Eclipse has an extremely strong suspension. The car itself sits already, very low to the ground. I can tell you from driving experience, there are PLENTY of road hazards to deal with already, such as, that more and more parking lots are installing speedbumps, road construction paving companies are leaving lots of careless mistakes with drop offs in the road, AND the worst of them ALL is the ammount of road debris left behind from many careless drivers.

All of these not only can wreck the front end of your car, but also rip out the bottom half of your oil pan and exhaust system.

If you feel the ABSOLUTE need to lower your car. Maybe air ride suspension isn't a bad idea. But I really feel that for this application it would NOT be a good idea!

Strut bar. I am an advocate of strut bars. (The top mounting bars) The strut tower bar is kind of hard to find. At least a good high quality one. The two i know of are the ones sold by dependable companies are Road Race Engineering and DC Sports. You will have to be semi-careful with both, as you will be stuck modifying the caps to your strut tower bars (the Astetic plastic cover that makes it look purdy) You really don't want to leave this open, as bugs, dirt and other careless objects will find their way down here and could rattle.

The Lower Rear sway bar. Installing/Modifying a Lower rear sway bar for this car, is DANGEROUS. If you do NOT EQUALLY MODIFY the front of your vehicle after installing this car part, you can wind up in a serious car wreck! There are some models of the 3G eclipse that do have this already installed and others that do not. You will have to check your MFG VIN number and research more about your vehicle.

Suspension Bushings: After around 141,000 Miles of use, a Car can use a bushing overhaul. Or you could just install those nice Red colored Bushings right away. I do see lots of Camber and bushing kits out there to change this. Being a person that is privileged to live in a county with LOTS of "S" Curves that are paved. I can enjoy flying around corners and tight enbankments of the road and enjoy the feeling of sports car enthusiasm for a few brief moments here and there. (of course until you come across the D-Bag guy from the other lane who crosses into your path, because hes a total idiot at driving) Then it's not so fun.

Tight banked S Curves do have a draw back and that is the CV Shaft. The CV shaft connects your front tires to the Transmission. THE CV shaft is something to really consider upgrading as this takes a MASSIVE beating when it comes to curves. 131,000 miles is when these typically start to wear out on any car. I will keep you guys posted when I start doing more research on better CV Shafts for this car. Bear in mind. CV SHAFTS ARE TOUGH TO CHANGE. They require a really powerful air tool to pull these suckers out. OR lots of work and a several day long project at that!

The Front Strut bar: The Eclipse GT comes with a Factory strut bar that is very well made. I would NEVER change this bar out with an aftermarket one. the Factory strut bar is bent to fit the car's engine bay just right, as well as the hood it sits under.

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Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Misc. 3G Eclipse Facts and 3G eclipse Road safety.

Here are some thoughts on my 2001 Eclipse GT V6, after starting almost the 4th year of owning it. As well as some stuff that is NOT listed about the car that you need to know.

  • The turning and maneuvering is really great on this car. It handles S-curves nicely as well as the 4 disc braking system is forgiving.

  • The mods for this car have probably more accessories than what matel has for a barbie. Btw, this car is NOT a girls' 

  • The interior lights of a 3g eclipse with a sunroof SUCKS. You are provided two dumb little lights that turns on in the rear view mirror when you open the door. I will definitely be researching on how to add in some professional looking dome lights, or a dome light from an eclipse without the sunroof

  • Reliability: As of today so far the issue that I've had atm is the Evaporative emissions system for this car. If it does NOT work right, you get nasty fuel millage.

  • Fuel mileage. On that topic, if everything is working right on the car. You can pull around 34mpg on the highway. This car does wonderful on the open roads and interstate. In-town driving, isn't too bad either. The Eclipse holds roughly 19 gallons in the gas tank. WARNING: you MUST run the Eclipse GT V6 on 91-93 Octane fuel. I started learning which gas stations are fudging on their 91 and cutting it with something less. Along with what I said here. I do NOT advise running the eclipse on Ethanol based fuel. It causes EGR fouling, spark plug fouling as well as premature failure of the oxygen sensors.

  • The factory radio has great reception. The antenna is built right into the defroster though, for this being a defroster based antenna, it is not nearly as sketchy as other cars with this type of antenna.

  • The factory amplifier is located underneath the passenger seat. WARNING: You must unplug the side airbags located in the seats to service this, or severe injury can occur. Unplug the battery before doing so.

  • The factory headlights on this car are terrible. I would advise switching to the Depo brand projector headlights for maximum night visability, along with H7 PIAA bulbs installed in them.

  • The hatch can land you serious injuries. It does NOT stay up very easily.

  • The clutch in this car in a 5-speed is extremely touchy, the give in it though, is a dream to the foot. Not much peddle effort and its hair-line sensitive. 

  • The factory gauges in this car light up Orange/yellow (about that color there) It is very visible at night, much more pleasant on the eyes vs Green, white or blue. Although red would have been awesome.
  • The car has 1 major design flaw that is both shameful and dishonorable from the factory. You MUST take off the upper intake manifold in order to service the rear bank spark plugs. A stealership is a MUST to do this.

  • I Know a bunch of you are curious as to what the 3g eclipse is like for speed and performance; Well to sum this up, Its fast in its own right, but NOT a stoplight racer car. It is the, Catch me if you can car. This car is great for getting away from the guy you flipped off that is now chasing you on an open road. You will rocket down the highway and top out much higher than he will. In the hands of a skilled drive. You can peg the needle all the way to the other end of the speedometer, without Forced induction. 

  • Should you decide to lay into it more than a few miles at a time for brief moments. I would strongly suggest investing in an oil sandwhich with a thermostat in it to run an external oil cooler as it's engine oil gets HOT. 
  • Mishimoto's Offical website carries QUALITY and reliable upgrades for this car! Everything from entirely metal radiators (not the cheep plastic-capped ones, Quality radiator hoses, Oil sandwiches, oil thermostats and much more!

Radar Detectors,

Anymore are useless. most law enforcement agencies now use "Laser". Since the turn of the mid 2000s, almost all law enforcement uses laser. There is NO protection against laser unless you use a "laser shifter". Using a laser shifter is NOT a violation of FCC or FDA laws. However most states have significant fines for using a laser shifter. Back when I was a habitual speeder (and I did get busted), I use to have a Beltronics Radar Detector on my dash. This kept me out of most traffic citations I would have received, eventually police radar got better, so I had to move from a 940 to a 955  because police radar became better built and could pick me up faster.

Radar Detector Brands: I would recommend Beltronics or their subdivision of Passport Escort brand detectors, or if you need more road information when detecting "Po-po's" , Valentine One. 

Speeding. In my opinion I would tell you that if you are traveling OVER 10mph the speed limit, a radar detector really isn't going to do you much good. Because of Perception distance, breaking distance and Brake-lag distance you will not have much time to react if you traveling faster than 10mph over the speed limit. 15mph is a Cut off point and that should be ONLY when you pass someone. Also given the road's speed limit that is set should also be a major determining factor of your speed. If you are on an interstate and going faster than 65mph, if you speed you are putting someone Else's life at risk if you decide that speeding is your thing.

Good advice and charts that I would advise on with "speeding". and I will remind you this is NOT legal or safety advice, these are my findings WITH operating the 3G eclipse.

  • 2 Lane highway: Set speed 45-55, it's generally safe AND necessary to pass at 15-20mph over the speed limit.

  • 2 lane highway/intersatate 60, passing speed: 10-15 mph

  • divided highway 65mph, passing speed 5-8 mph

  • Interstate expressway, 75mph, passing speed 5-8mph

  • Interstate expressway, 80mph, passing speed5mph  

Avoiding Road Rage and getting "plugged" Road raged is catching up at an alarming rate in the United States.  Please read this blog here, if you are wanting to know stuff.
Should you decide that you are annoyed with someone's speed they are traveling, you need to first stop and think . " Is this person following the posted speed limit?" If so, then why did you catch up to them first?

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Friday, June 6, 2014

3G Eclipse Performance

In this brief but still long article I am writing today. I am going to talk about what everyone wants to know is. Natural aspiration and tuning. Tuning is a vitale aspect to what makes any car run faster, better and more efficient (we are NOT talking about fuel efficiency)

If you are in Highschool still and have purchased this car, don't expect your parents to let you spend this kind of money, let alone be able to afford it, up until your 20s. These performance mods are things that can essentially hurt you or worse! If you want to save up your dollars, take the car to a professional and have them tune and add parts to your car. There is no dishonor in that. Just don't strut around acting like you know a thing or two.....

1. Question of the day. Will performance mods leave my car fuel efficient?
IN lay mens terms, when you have more horses to feed at one time, the more you have to spend more on feed for them. This means your car WILL loose fuel efficienty Unless you spend uber amounts of money researching the other end, but by then you are already broke! So YES you will spend more money on fuel.

2. What is an IDEAL horsepower for a daily driver with a give or take. Well in my opinion. The stock motor is listed as 210HP (at best, on a good day) so a target of 253HP with an okay budget would suffice or at best 310HP. Call it quits then.

3. Clutches and transmissions. If you have bought a car that has the dreaded automatic in it. You are going to have to ABSOLUTELY find some way of purchasing a manual transmission for the car and having it installed. Manual transmissions are easy to repair and are nearly "bullet proof" when it comes to making horsepower. BUT you have to remember you may wind up changing out for an improved clutch. Clutches such as Fidanza (one of the best) or Exedy (if you are on a budget) are ideal for this scenario. A new flywheel (which is super crazy pricey) and someone with machine shop knowledge is going to be needed for this install, as aftermarket flywheels require some modifications. With an automatic to manual conversion you will have to track down the extra parts such as an ECM (engine control unit for cars with a manual transaxle computer) for manuals to swap out your Power train control module (a car with an automatic transaxle computer) This invovles also modifying the pedals to accommodate for a switch that originally led to your brake pedal and your ignition to a switch that leads to your clutch)

4. Initial tuning. If you are new to tuning and want to have someone else take the liability or not... A good turner will tune EACh and every cylinder's air/fuel ratio and spark timing, NOT just as a hole. Most people overlook this fact and don't realize that consistency in burns per cylinder leads to poor performance.

This means that each and every cylinder must be tuned with individual fuel flows and spark times. You dont just back off the fuel or raise the fuel and advance the system as a hole. You have to adjust accordingly.

5. Camshafts and Camshaft gears. There are a select few out there that carry Cam shaft gears and cams for this car. Fidanza is the only one that I know of. This allows you to advance or re'tard the time your valves open and close on your motor. If you want to buy this for that small worst case scenario you want to change something, or to put in a better quality part.. By all means do so! BUT be aware that if you do something wrong with this, you can severaly destroy your whole engine. You can and will essentially send a valve through the head of your piston and it ain't purdy!

On this car it is difficult to get at these camshaft gears as they are buried and to be honest nobody is going to be able to see them, unlike a 4 Cylinder motor.

-Camshafts. Camshafts are the baseline start for any performance vehicle, the facts that a valve staying open for a little longer can add more fuel in or reduce it for a split second longer is vital and key to performance. There are 2 types of Camshafts out there. Ones with lobes that push the valves out a bit further and others that hold it open for just a tad bit longer.  (Duration or lift) I won't go into a ton of details myself, but I prefer cams that are duration, over lift. With lift profiles changed you run the risk of shoving a valve through a piston!

WARNING: High performance race cams will make your car idle rough. It won't ruin it (if installed correctly) but it doesn't make for a pleasant idle.

-Also you can find both of these products on RPW Australia's website. I don't sponser them, but they carry extremely high quality products and STILL out there for this car. Unlike most of the companies that have abandoned us.

By now you should be really intimidated and going. Well this isn't necessary! Okay it's just me being completely and totally honest with you.

*** Now for the main event.*** The MOST overlooked, yet somewhat simple modification ( I said somewhat!)  is the overlook of the Intake manifold and the throttle body!  People overlook the throttle body because it's NOT a catchy word nor is it something someone would even think to do! A wider throttle body leading into a widened intake manifold means the car can suck even more air into the system. Yes I will give a nice warning that it DOES require tuning. BUT it is a definent start when it comes to this car.

I know that people have chosen to overlook this because they simply don't think about it. You can have all the boost you want behind that throttle body, but if It can't get into the motor any more "efficiently" then you have lost horsepower! If you want to, you could try and sweet talk Venom Performance out of California to custom build you a manifold. yes it may cost you a load of cash, but it just might be your answer ;)

6. Ignition systems ( I will update this article later on)

7. Fuel pumps and fuel rails  ( I will update this article later on)

Small and easy mods are

1. Better spark plug wires (NGK)
2. New spark plugs (NGK)
3. KN stock replacement panel filter (or AEM Cold air)
4. Catback or Axle back exhaust (Genki tuning has these, or Tanabe -possibly)
5. Professional installation of short tube headers

These are a few mods that are simple, yes they are pricey, but they will help YOU determine as an individual as to how much money you want this car to soak up

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